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Art and Grime at Shoreditch High Street

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The East End of London lies just beyond 'The City' - the City of London of the banks and businesses and the investment bankers, the money and the riches, the swanky glass and steel monoliths and the Gherkin...the typical, the most famous imagery of London as the world knows it - just beyond it is the rundown, derelict, grimey borough of Hackney. Known equally for its ghettos and youth gangs as its art scene, Hackney is an Ethnographer's delight. The East End, in fact is one of the main concentrations for London's contemporary art scene and is as littered with studios and 'artsy types' - the 'Shoreditch twats' of popular culture, as it is with crumbling old buildings, juvenile criminals and wastrels and graffiti.

No wonder then, I wanted to click it.

My first 'brush' with Shoreditch was when I was a postgraduate student of city design and social science two years back. I was interviewing Bangladeshi business owners at Spitalfields and Bethnal Green - both just off the Shoreditch High Street. That was an intimidating experience, because I was unnerved by the rough surroundings, the scared or shy Bangladeshi women who refused to speak to me, the dawdling men who glared at me and my voice recorder as I exited the shops, and the repetitive mention of youth gangs by everyone I spoke to. But it also piqued my curiosity about the area because I got a whiff of the underground art , fashion and music scene as I walked the streets that day - more of an intruder than a flâneur then ; but a flâneur today when I walked into Shoreditch High Street with my camera, not to talk or intervene; instead to quietly experience and capture the street and re-tell the story of it here.

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Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com


One of the first things that strikes you as you walk from Bishopsgate towards Shoreditch High Street is the stark and almost abrupt change in the urban views and the environment - right across a simple traffic signal. The glittering, gleaming City towers over Shoreditch like a benevolent giant, yet how far it feels from you depends on which side of Norton Folgate you are.


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The second thing I realised was that I wasn't the only photographer around.


Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com



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And then you see it. The dichotomy of the old and new - the feeble signs of gentrification that are trying to come into their own amongst the derelict roughness, and only barely succeeding.


Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com



Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com



Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com



Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com



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And then there is the quirkiness of street art - where else but the East End?

Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com
Yes - those are real Tube engines!


Shoreditch High Street on www.flaneurbanite.blogspot.com
Right outside the Shoreditch Church, urging you to be...er... rude.


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This last picture was clicked on Rivington Street, which turned out to be an exciting bohemian delight. I am saving that for another post!

That's the thing with Shoreditch, every other street will bring surprising signs of gentrification in the middle of the squalor. A large number of old buildings and warehouses have been converted into studios and offices now, from which artists, musicians, designers and fashionistas operate. I need to befriend somone who lives here! There's Hoxton, which is known for it's vintage and cheap fashion market, there's Fashion Street where upcoming designers sell their stuff, there's Spitalfields, Smithfields Market, Bangla Town, Bethnal Green... for me, that means a whole lot of flânerie for the future and for you, a whole lot of pictures and stories.

Do keep dropping in. :)



Kingly Court on a cold London evening

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I have hundreds of old pictures that I could put up here, but the last few posts and the response to them had me craving to click more NOW. London is full of opportunities and stories, every street, every street corner is different from the next.

I decided to visit Carnaby Street today. As I turned into Brook Street from Regent Street to get to Carnaby though, I got accosted (literally) by Kingly Court - a stunning shopping and lifestyle courtyard conversion built about 6 years ago.

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The three storeyed development consists of a central courtyard surrounded on all sides by pretty fashion and lifestyle boutiques and trendy cafes and bars. Since it's a Tuesday and I went in after lunch, it wasn't as crowded as I'm used to seeing it.


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The most magnificent part of the court, however, is the tensile fabric canopy that covers its length and breadth.


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I was met with a few curious glances and one very suspicious glare by an Asian woman as I went about clicking. That's terrorism-era-London for you. For the most part though, people didn't seem to be too bothered by me. A couple of people including a bar bouncer did try to peep into my camera's large LCD display to check what I was upto, and I let them, without making it apparent to them that I was letting them! :)

The gentleman on the left is 'posing' for me here - he deliberately sauntered into the frame and then smiled at me once I was done clicking! Not that I'm complaining - he lent some interesting symmetry to this frame.


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What I really love about this place, apart from the uber cool shops and boutiques, is the cool laidback-ness of the place in the middle of the frenzy of Regent Street and Carnaby Street that lie just outside it. People hang about alone or in groups, snog a kiss or hog a drink or two, or just pass through from Regent Street to Carnaby, while the signboards ooze their quirky urban charm and take me in.


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I guess Carnaby Street will have to be another post then.


The Man Under The Bridge

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Speaking of the underside of bridges , here's one of my favourite pictures of the same from Regents Canal in London. Clicked in November 2006.

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Around Turnham Green bridge

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Bridges in London almost always contain a life and look of their own underneath, that may or may not be contiguous with the way life and surroundings look beyond them. The grungy, grimey underside of Turnham Green bridge that is located in what is otherwise a very posh (and therefore well-maintained) locality of Chiswick is no exception.

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Trains thunder past overhead, while water from the rain earlier in the day drips down on the unsuspecting people below. No wonder that people hurry through - they do not stroll or stop.

Life just beyond looks starkly different.

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Meerut

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On a steaming hot afternoon in the middle of summer 2006 in Meerut, India, life goes on without a trace of regard to the fierce sun.Bold

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While I sit in my air-conditioned taxi, a 'tempo' - the ubiquitous metal contraption that serves as secondary public transport in several small towns of north India - splutters to a halt next to me. It's packed to the gills and several people including a stout old woman disembark. The 'tempo' waits for more passengers, it's engine running all the time, spewing putrid fumes into the hot air, threatening to leave any minute.



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The tempo is designed to have two sets of three seats facing each other, behind the driver' seat. This one has two men seated on either side of the driver - each half in, half hanging out from each side of the tempo. The rear seats meant for six had at least eight, until the few passengers disembarked.

And then I notice the two extra seats apparently retro-fitted in the back - facing the back of the tempo. The only two seats, which are not shielded from the angry sun. Two men sit in these seats, trying to keep out of the sun out but barely succeeding - sweating and barely awake as the sun saps them of life. One of these men was intently, though not surprisingly with a big grimace, trying to pull his tooth out. Or so it seemed to me.

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A little squeamish from the sight, I look the other way, and almost jump out of my seat.

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A movie poster advertising the Bolloywood movie -'Pyaare Mohan'
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Baker Street Underground

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Baker Street Underground Station, Central London. Inaugurated in 1863, it was one of the first underground stations in the world. This is the original tunnel, built for the Hammersmith and City Line, which still operates for the same line.

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I clicked these on a late summer night in 2007. I think this is one of the grandest and most beautiful stations in Central London. The swanky new ones just do not compare. The Hammersmith and City line is creaky, frequently late and slow. That adds to the charm - but not in rush hour, I'm sure.


Me, the Flaneurbanite

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I think walking a city is the best way to experience it. To really feel a place, to touch its fabric, I need to walk it. To feel the ground beneath my feet - concrete, paved or cobbled; to smell the smells, to touch the textures - stone, brick, paint, grime, metal, dust. to observe the people, to listen to their tongues, to get involved with their lives, yet be detached and hidden- that's the way I feel the city.

I like listening to, and telling stories. Writing and Photography are the two ways I tell mine. Urban Legends will bring together these narratives from my cities - the ones I live in and the ones I travel to.

I hope to listen to yours in return.